Built over a period of several weekends the shed measures approximately 14ft (4.26M) x 7ft (2.13M). Dimensioned drawings are available as a pdf file. The size depends on your own requirements and of course available space, but it is always better to go as large as possible.
UPDATE:  This one has now been extended by adding 6ft on the front making it a low pitched roof design.

 I chose a pent roof for two reasons, ease of construction and to avoid overshadowing my neighbour's greenhouse with a higher, pitched roof. Other criteria  in my design were to build a shed which is weatherproof, hence the use of under felt behind the boarding, also as I don't plan to build another, unless of course I move house, I chose heavier timber than one might normally use. Total cost was around 350.

Before starting check with your local authority regarding planning consent and building regulations, although in most cases there are few restrictions.

            The base depends on the stability of the ground. If the ground is very firm it may be possible to simply remove a few inches of soil and lay slabs or concrete blocks. on softer ground it will be necessary to dig down to firm ground then place blocks on top of each other to the required height, or fill the hole with concrete then place blocks on this. If the shed is to be particularly heavy lay a concrete "raft" or build "sleeper" walls on concrete footings. Start by setting out pegs and builders line from which to work to.

Build the floor on the base placing a damp proof layer under the joists using the pegs and a builders line to keep it square and level. Construct the front, rear and end frames using half-lap joints screwed together (glue the joints as well if you wish) pre-drilling the bottom and corner timbers for screwing together. With some help stand one end frame and the rear frame upright using g-clamps to hold them in position while screwing them together. Do the same with the other end then the front before screwing to the floor (ensure the door frame is parallel). Fit the roof timbers notching the top rails of the front and rear. Check all is square and fully tighten all screws.
Fix under slating felt (optional) to the framework with tacks or a staple gun, run the felt horizontally overlapping by about 2" on the joins. Fit the window and weatherboard over the door. Cut and fix shiplap or  feather-edge board to the frame-work using galvanised nails. On a smaller, lighter shed it may be possible to fix the boarding before assembly, however on this size shed the panels would be un-manageable. Hang the door. Apply sealer down the corners and fix square battens. Fix the roof boarding and felt the roof. Finally treat exposed timber with a good weather-proof  preservative and fix guttering.
            Once the construction is complete the inside can be lined with hardboard or 3-ply. It may even be worth considering installing insulation material if the shed is to be used as a workshop in the winter months. An electric supply is also very useful, but is best left to a qualified electrician. And of course a water butt would be useful to collect rainwater for the garden. Then you could use your imagination, fit a bar and turn it  into your own "pub" or a replica of your local curry house, the possibilities are endless.

            Costs can be reduced by using materials from a demolition/salvage yard (the window in my own shed was a second-hand metal framed one, just requiring glass). Certainly second-hand floorboards would be ideal for the floor. Even pallets would be a good source of wood, in fact I used thick pallet boards for the floor of my own shed, covering these with chip board (again ex-packaging) which I then painted with floor paint to give an even easy to clean surface. Thinner pallets provided the timber for the roof. If building a smaller shed, which may only be used for garden tools, then smaller timber sizes could be used for the framework.

Copyright 2005


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